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Description
There is always a lot going on in Cork city -- it is a huge
city, and it takes time to absorb. If you're coming from rural Ireland, the
contrast is like night and day. So
rather than stress yourself out, give yourself some time to enjoy it. The city is made for walking, with its
picturesque lanes and quays. There is
lots of great food, art, and culture all over the place. So plan to take your time here soaking it
in. You're in for a treat.
What to See and Do
First thing's first, visit the Beamish/Miller brewery for a
tall cold one. It will keep you
mellow. And eat. Cork is the place for epicureans, with loads
of great restaurants along the lanes.
I'm still dreaming about the dinner we enjoyed at Café Paradiso - organic
vegetarian creations that were absolutely sublime.
Cork city has loads of historic architecture. Tour St. Finn Barre's Cathedral, on Dean
Street, a stunning, Gothic-style cathedral completed in 1879. Elizabeth Fort is off Barrack Street near the
cathedral. Built in the late 16th
century, this fort was converted into a prison in 1835. St. Anne's Church in the Shandon area was
built in 1722, and it is these bells that you'll hear resounding across the
city. Blackrock Castle Observatory is a
15th century castle converted to a science center, on the east edge
of the city. Blarney Castle is renowned
for it's stone which bequeaths the "gift of gab" - this is a true thrill to
kiss the stone and tour the authentic castle, located in Blarney northwest of the
city on the N20.
The city centre has lots of shopping on St. Patrick's Street
and Grand Parade. Visit the English
Market for a taste of farmer's produce, fresh charcuterie and cheese, and
pastries to delight - a historic covered market built in 1788, located on Grand
Parade.
Cork's culture and arts seem to be located along the
quays. Vibes and Scribes is an art
supply and bookstore on Coal Quay. The
Cork Opera House on Lavitt's Quay is a modern home of the arts - stop in to
find out their current schedule of events.
Around the corner on Emmett Street is the Crawford Art Gallery. Free-guided tours of the gallery are at
2:30PM on Saturdays. They also host
summer art workshops. On display was a
comprehensive exhibition of Irish stone carver Seamus Murphy. They have a large collection of paintings by
Norah McGuinness, as well as some exquisite sketches and stained glass by Harry
Clarke. The Everyman Palace Theatre on
St. Patrick's Quay has a schedule of running shows and is located on the north
side of the River Lee. The Lewis
Glucksman Gallery is worth a visit. It
is in an internationally acclaimed building on the main campus of University
College Cork.
The Shandon area on the north side of the River Lee is a fun
place to explore. Centered around St.
Anne's Church, it is a the top of a hill overlooking the city. The Shandon Craft Centre houses local
artisans and studio workshops. From
handmade instruments, to stained glass, handcrafted jewelry, crystal, weaving,
knitwear, and fine ceramics, this is a good place to browse for gifts. The Buttermarket Café is within the centre -
family run for 23 years, they serve breakfast all day, lunches, and homemade
soup and quiches. The Centre will be
closing within the year for renovations, so check it out while you still can.
The Cork Butter Museum commemorates the Cork Butter Market,
in use from the late 1700s until 1924 - learn about it here.
The Lifetime Lab is Cork city's old waterworks, on Lee Road
west along the River Lee. A visit here
provides an education in Cork city's environmental issues and its industrial
growth. There are lots of pretty walking
paths nearby along the river.
If you want to take a quick trip to Dublin for the day, take
the Air - it was less crowded than the Bus Eirann and with more foot space - www.aircoach.ie.
Where to Eat and
Drink
Café Paradiso is the city's premier gourmet, organic
vegetarian restaurant and highly recommended for lunch, dinner, and dessert -
try the chocolate and olive oil mousse cake (www.cafeparadiso.ie). Quay Co-Op Vegetarian Restaurant on Sullivans
Quay is a cafeteria-style spot with two levels of seating. They serve homemade cakes, soups, lasagnas,
pizzas, sweet and savory tarts, and various daily specials (www.quaycoop.com). Wild Ways is a modern, fast food organic
place, with soups and sandwiches (www.wildways.net). Maher's Pure Coffee on Phoenix Street looked
like a great café. Nutmeg Organic
Restaurant was also appealing. O'Conaill
is an Irish chocolatier with a huge selection of hot chocolates.
Where to Sleep
Gort-Na-Nain Vegetarian Guesthouse and Organic Farm is
located just south of the city in Nohoval; highly recommended www.gortnanain.com. Café Paradiso has a B&B with three double
rooms to relax in after a fine meal (www.cafeparadiso.ie). Kinlay House Hostel is located in the Shandon
area and highly recommended for budget travelers (www.kinlayhousecork.ie).
How to get there
By car:
From Novohal, head north to the R611 through Ballyfeard to
Carrigaline. Follow the signs to the N28
north to Cork city centre.
From Clonakilty, take the N71 north to the N22 east Cork
city centre.
From Midleton, take the N25 west to Cork city centre.
By train:
See www.irishrail.ie
for a current schedule.
By bus:
See www.buseireann.ie
website for all current travel details and restrictions.
When to go
April through October, when the days are longer and the sun
more likely to show. Cork St. Patrick's
Festival in March. West Cork Music
Festival in April. Cork International
Choral Festival in early May. Eurochild
International Festival in June. Ocean to
Sea - An Ras Mor from Crosshaven to Lapps Quay in early June. Cork City Marathon in early June. Cork Midsummer Festival in late June. Live at the Marquee in late June/early
July. 56th Bupa Ireland Cork
City Sports in late June. Beamish Cork
Folk Festival in late August/early September.
Frank O'Connor International Festival of the Short Story in
September. East Cork Early Music
Festival the third week in September.
Cork ‘20' International Car Rally in late September. Murphy's Cork Film Festival in
mid-October. Guinness Cork Jazz Festival
in late October. Cork ArtsFest in November.
Written by Liz O'Malley - Summer of Travel 2007
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