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Co. Cork
Description
Whatever the weather may be at other points in West Cork, it
is magnified at Mizen Head. If it is
raining in the Beara, it is pouring here.
If it is windy there, the winds are raging here. Because this peninsula
is more skinny and exposed than the other peninsulas, it gets more extreme
versions of the weather. So when the
sun's out, head for Mizen head, where it will be blazing.
The Mizen Head peninsula drive is 64 miles (103km). Overall, the north side is more green and
less rugged and raw than Sheep's Head peninsula. The road goes right up alongside the
water. We noticed a lot of land for sale
here. The drive takes you to the most
southwesterly tip of Ireland - Mizen Head Signal Station. Tour the Signal Station. The gorgeous beaches of Barley Cove are
waiting for you afterwards.
When the sun is out in Ireland, and you see a sandy beach,
stop whatever you're doing and enjoy it.
We learned this the hard way and missed out on many nice beaches. The fact is, the rains come so fast and are
so hard to predict, it is a rare thing to enjoy a sunny beach.
On the south side of the peninsula, are the sea-faring towns
of Crookhaven, Schull, and Ballydehob.
Crookhaven is at the tail of a dead end road that goes up
along a cliff above Barely Cove. The village was full of kids learning how to
sail. You can catch a ferry here to
Clear Island. This summer, in the aptly
named village, a boat laden with tons of kilos of cocaine spilled in the
water. It caused a huge media stir,
provoking search brigades to track down the stray satchels. It was the big joke on our travels, from
Bantry to Cork.
Schull is a lovely sailing town where the two coke runaways
were found. Lots of good food and
shopping here - it is a nice, resort vibe.
There is also a sailing school.
Ballydehob is the more touristy of the towns. It has a lot of cool, old shop fronts. Take a scenic walk on 12 Arch Bridge by the
water.
Driving around the southwest, the secret is to stay ahead of
the tractors. If you must stop to take a
photo, don't let them pass you. Then you
have to pass them again, which is no small feat on the narrow roads.
What to See and Do
Visit the Mizen Head Signal Station. Shop for beautiful
linen, hemp, and wool creations at Pebbles in Schull. Robert Lee Ceramics Gallery and Studio is
located in Ballydehob, just a few miles from Schull. He specializes in contemporary porcelain. Visit Keltic Knot, a craft shop and gallery
in Ballydehob. Hobbits in an antique
store in Ballydehob, with lots of wonders.
Browse A Nice Old Bookshop in Ballydehob.
Where to Eat and
Drink
The Crookhaven Inn and The Welcome Inn are two pubs in
Crookhaven. O'Sullivan's Bar serves tea,
scones, and open-faced sandwiches for lunch in Crookhaven. The Harbour is a sit-down restaurant in
Crookhaven. In Schull, the West Cork
Gourmet Store is an ideal place to sit and have a coffee - it feels like the
West Village of New York City. Also in
Schull is Gwen's Chocolates, run by Gwen himself, a French chocolatier. Taste mouth-watering bonbons in subtle
flavors. Summersalt is a café and
culinary emporium in Ballydehob. They
make homemade breads, scones, cakes, and pies, all using spelt flour and no
dairy. Hudon's Wholefoods is the organic
grocer in Ballydehob.
Where to Sleep
Barley Cove has a hotel on the beach, or rent a cottage for
your family. In Schull, The Bunratty Inn is right along the waterfront. The Harbour View Hotel boasts a view and
four-star accommodations. There are also
many B&Bs in the hillside with sea views.
How to get there
By car:
From Durrus, take R591 Mizen Head drive out to Mizen Head
point. Return on R591, drive to
Crookhaven on a dead end street. Turn
around and drive the R591 through Goleen and Toormore. Transfer to R592 and drive through Schull and
Ballydehob.
From Skibberren, take N71 to Ballydehob, transfer to R592
and drive through Schull and Toormore, take R591 to Goleen and out to
Crookhaven. Follow signs to Mizen Head
point and then head northwest to Dunmanus and back onto the R591 to Durrus.
By bus:
See www.buseireann.ie
website for all current travel details and restrictions.
When to go
April to October, when the days are longer and the sun comes
out. Crookhaven Regatta in
mid-August. Ballydehob Summer Festival
in mid-August. Goleen Festival in
mid-August.
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