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If you were the proud owner of a 1300-acre
estate with 3 lakes and 7km of woodland trails, which featured some of the
oldest and largest trees in Ireland (several on the National Register), you
would probably offer your guests a not-to-be-missed, personally guided tour
before dinner.
But weather on the Emerald Isle being
"predictable," and trails sometimes sloppy at their edges, what would you do
with the inevitable muddy walking shoes and hiking boots? Perhaps you would do
as the Radisson Farnham Estate, which is located near Cavan Town in Co. Cavan.
A sign attached to a large mud-splattered
riding boot, just inside the west entry, reads, "If you wish, place your dirty
shoes in one of the bags provided and use the slippers you see here with our
compliments." Ah, nice. Slippers and bag
for messy shoes. But Lords Farnham, any one of them stretching back over 330
years, might have gone one step further and assigned a footman or lady's maid
to the task of cleaning shoes. After all, records of early 1900's mention a
house staff of 11, and back in the late 1700's, records show that 100 employees
tended farms and woodlands that covered some 24,000 acres.
According to a brochure, the last of the
Maxwell family, the 13th Lord Farnham, died in 2001 at which time the
property was sold. A contemporary, four-star hotel, golf, and housing
development now occupies the site and gratefully bears the imprint and legacy
of the Maxwell family. And not just in the restored estate house as impressive
as it is with gilded mirrors, marble fireplaces, parquet floors, and eight-foot
tall windows, but above all, in the giant trees lining the woodland trails. The
Maxwells were first and foremost avid and prolific planters of trees, many of
them non-native species imported from around the world. And to see them, in the relatively short time
before supper (one could spend many pleasant hours walking the trails), the
present estate manager, Michael Barry, couldn't have been more accommodating.
He graciously provided a tour in his 4-wheel drive vehicle.
It's hard to overstate the awesome
size, rarity, and stunning presence of these awesome
specimens, some of whose ages approach 400 years. One visitor to the Farnham Estate in the
early 1800's described a carefully managed woodland and deer park known to be
200 years old at that time.
So called "first growth," virgin, or never
harvested forests are rare, especially in Europe. In Maine, for instance, in
the early days of logging, white pine 8 feet in diameter and 140 feet tall were
eagerly sought and routinely harvested. Not one example survives. Here at
Farnham, on easily accessible rambles,
you'll be able to see many species (oak, beech, hemlock, chestnut,
cedar, lime) that approach this enormous size and age. And yes, you'll be able
to do other things here. Ride bikes, a convenient way to explore the trails,
and fish in the 3 lakes, gear provided. And there's a modern spa which smells
enchanting as soon as you open the door: scented oil.
Then, you may go from indoor heated pool to
the outdoor merely by diving under a glass partition. The meals here are
superb. Best salmon ever, bar none. The chef's not so closely guarded secret?
Marinate in teriyaki, serve over coriander noodles. Absolutely delicious. After
dinner, try a game of chess. You've heard of lawn tennis at Wimbledon, for
instance? How about lawn chess? Just last evening, a man and a boy challenged
each other on opposite sides of an 8-foot checkerboard with chess pieces over 2
feet tall. This stirring action took place right in front of a weather-scarred
cypress reaching well over 100 feet into the air, which tradition claims was
planted by Bishop Bedell in the 1600's commemorating a treaty of peace between
the English and the ever-resentful local clans.
Earlier, the assistant head of
housekeeping, Helen Leddy, allowed a quick look at one of the eight guest rooms
located in the restored part of the original estate house. The rooms have all
the modern conveniences, but the unmistakable ambiance of another era with
marble fireplaces, wide plank floors, period wood panelling, wavy glass windows
whose panes look out on the vast expanse of terraced lawn and a prized
centuries old cedar of Lebanon.
"My grandmother," Helen said, "is 90 years
old now, but in the 30's and 40's, she was a house servant, chambermaid for
Lord and Lady Farnham. She must have been well regarded, for the Farnhams
considered her part of their household and took her with them when they
travelled to England where they also maintained a home."
It's hard to move around here without
encountering a tale of two eras.
www.farnham.radissonsas.com
Directions: From Dublin, approx 90 km, take
N3. Then R198 out of Cavan Town toward Killashandra for 5km.
Written by Joy Davis - Summer of Travel 2007
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