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Co. Kerry
Description
This is the largest of all the southwest peninsulas, so
allow for some time here. The Iveragh
contains Carrantuohill, Ireland's highest mountain, making it the literal
backbone of County Kerry. Take the
famous Ring of Kerry drive, my grandmother's favorite place in Ireland due to
its supreme beauty. The peninsula is a
place for naturalists and explorers, with lakes, woodlands, and sandy beaches.
What to See and Do
The landscape is gorgeous here and just calling you out to
play. Pick up The Kerry Way Map Guide, published by Cork Kerry Tourism, for
information about the long walks on the peninsula. Or read New
Irish Walk Guides - Southwest, by Sean O'Suilleabhain, published by Gill
& Macmillan. Visit Killarney,
situated in the heart of Killarney National Park. Drive the gorgeous Gap of Dunloe, set within
the McGillicuddy Reeks. Go climbing in
Glencar, known as "The Highlands of Kerry."
Sail aboard a luxury 37-foot yacht from Cahersiveen around Valentia and
Beginish Islands with John O'Donoghue (www.yachtcharterkerry.com). Rossbeigh beach, near Glenbeigh, is famous
for the summer horse races, thundering on its sandy banks - enquire locally for
dates.
The Iveragh Peninsula is seeped in historic wonders. Visit Cahersiveen, the birthplace of Daniel
O'Connell, "The Liberator." Tour the
Derrynane House and National Historic Park, his childhood home (Tel: 353 (0)66
947 5113). See the Eightercua Stone
Alignment near Waterville. Wander the
ancient church site of Templenakilla. Visit
the Skellig Heritage Centre on Valentia Island.
Learn about the history of Michael Skellig, a seemingly uninhabitable
rock eight miles off the coast, that was home to an early Christian monastery,
one of the best preserved examples today (www.skelligexperience.com). Take a boat trip out the Michael Skellig from
the Heritage Centre. Cruise Valentia
Island, with its pre-Christian remains, a famous grotto, and the footsteps of
ancient life forms. Visit the Ogham
stones on the way to Kells - Leacht Fhionain on Drung Hill, and another at
Loher. Wander the town of Kells, seeped
in history, home to John Golden, associated with the Fenian Rising.
Where to Eat and
Drink
For farm-fresh goodness, visit the Country Market, Fridays
11:30AM to 1:30PM at St. Mary's Parish Hall on St. Anne's Road in
Killarney. There is also a Sunday
Farmer's Market at the Dunloe Golf Course, on Gap of Dunloe Road, from 1PM to
5PM.
For a little decadence, visit Skelligs Chocolates, outside
Ballinskelligs - you won't be disappointed (www.skelligschocolates.com, www.cocoabeanchocolates.com).
Waterville has some finer restaurants. Voted Food Pub of the Year '07, QC's in
Cahersiveen, definitely worth a taste (www.qcbar.com). The Pancake Cottage, for old-fashioned, sweet
and savory pancakes, made to order. The
cottage is located on the Sneem-Moll's Gap Road (www.pancakecottage.com). On Valentia Island, The Skellig Centre has
Fionans Kitchen restaurant, with floor to ceiling windows overlooking Portmagee
village. Look also for handwritten signs
for "Homemade Bakeing" (sic) pointing the way to local delights on The Ring
Line Road, on Valentia Island.
Where to Sleep
Camp at award-winning, three-star park in Cahersiveen --
Mannix Point Camping and Caravan Park (www.campingkerry.com). A fabulous hostel in a gently restored
farmhouse in Templenoe, run by avid naturalist Torsten and Sabine - The
Greenwood Hostel (Tel: 064 89247, Mobile: 086 3484558, Email:
This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it
).
How to get there
By car:
From Tralee, take N70 south toward Castlemaine. Drive the N70 coastal road to Cahirciveen and
transfer to the R565 to Portmagee. From
Portmagee, you can drive across a bridge and tour Valentia Island. Another option is to take the car ferry from
Renard Point, on the mainland, to Knightstown, on Valentia Island. After touring Valentia Island, head back to
Portmagee and take the coastal road to Ballingskelligs. Take the R567 coastal road back to the
N70. Head south toward Catherdaniel on
the N70; stay on the N70 and pass through Sneem, Templenoe, and eventually to
Kenmare. Another option is to take the
R568 from Sneem up to the N71 up to Killarney, for an utterly breathtaking
drive.
By bus:
See www.buseireann.ie
website for all current travel details and restrictions.
When to go
From April to October, when the days are longer and the sun
comes out. Set Dancing Workshop in
Portmagee in May. The Ring of Kerry
Cycle Ride is in July. The Templenoe
Regatta is in July. The Cahersiveen
Celtic Music Festival is in August. The
Puck Fair is a famous event in Killorglin, happening every August. Blasket Island Commemoration Festival in
October.
Written by Liz O'Malley - Summer of Travel 2007
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