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Co. Donegal
Gartahork rests at the head of Ballyness
Bay and Dunfanaghy looks across tidal flats to Sheephaven. The area abounds in
hearty sheep that thrive on course grazing and is home to numerous herding
competitions. Almost every weekend during the summer, trainers and their prize
border collies gather to show off their skills. Dunfanaghy begins its annual summer
festival the last Sunday in July with just such an event.
While in Dunfanaghy, Gaelic for fort of the
fair haired warrior, the drive out to Horn Head is not to be missed. It's
possibly even more dramatic than Maghery, if less heart stopping because there
are a few more wide places in the single lane road. From the parking area where
the summit road ends, a rocky path leads up a moderately steep slope to a
thoughtfully placed shelter, just enough protection for sometimes fierce winds
off the Atlantic and for comfortable viewing and photography of an almost 270
degree seascape that sprawls from Tory Island in the West across Sheephaven Bay
to the headlands of Rosquil in the east and beyond.
From this shelter, which has a small
fireplace, hikers venture down a steep path into a glen that leads to the 150
feet high cliffs that are the Horn itself. In early fall and late spring, a
turf fire and thermos of hot tea will be most welcomed back at the shelter. The
drive out to the summit and back can be done in an hour. For hiking all the way
to Horn Head, plan on 5 to 6 hours. The terrain is suitable for families with
children.
To complete this unforgettable experience
of the Irish North Atlantic Coast, get back on N56 and go east to Portnablagh
then south to Creeslough. Just past Creeslough, take R245, the 11km to
Carrickart then R248 North to Downies. Signs will direct you to Atlantic Drive
and will advise that a clockwise direction is best to tour the Rosquil
Peninsula. You'll meet less oncoming traffic and be grateful. From this aptly
named roadway you'll look across the narrows of Mulroy Bay to the more remote
and isolated Fanad Peninsula. You'll have to return to Carrikcart and follow
Mulroy Bay all the way south to Milford in order to explore Fanad. But the
short journey is well worth it. R246 will take you north again to Carrowkeel
and Portsalon. From there, an unmarked coast road will take you to Fanad Head
and the lighthouse that marks the wide entry to Ballymaster Bay and Lough
Swilly. Return to Carrowkeel via the Mulroy Bay Coast Road for another of those
wild and wonderful, sometimes heartstopping, absolutely eyepopping, touring
experiences.
All along this extensive coast, B&Bs
are numerous as are adverts for self catering units and holiday homes. By the
end of the week (you can't do it in much less), you'll be ready to stay in one
place for a while and will know just where you'd like to do it.
Written by Joy Davis - Summer of Travel 2007
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